Note the craftsmanship. Large-scale manufacturing processes that became popular in the middle of the last century made it easier to create jewelry quickly and in large quantities. When looking at your vintage jewelry, see if the piece shows signs of being handmade. Keep in mind, however, that even if it’s not crafted by hand, it could still be valuable. A good portion of vintage jewelry was mass-produced in the 1940s and ’50s.
Don’t just look at the top side of the piece. Turn it over and check out the detail on the underside. High-quality pieces are nicely finished from top to bottom.
After looking at the craftsmanship, consider the materials. A vintage and antique jewelry identification guide always focuses on materials. A popular vintage and antique jewelry value estimator deals with the materials used to make the piece. Vintage jewelry might consist of fine materials such as diamonds, sapphires, gold and platinum, or it might feature less expensive materials, such as silver, rhinestones and amethysts. Use a magnifying glass to search for marks inside the piece. If it’s made from gold, platinum or silver, it will have a stamp. The material the vintage jewelry is made from can make literally thousands of dollars of difference in its value.
The cut of the gems can also point to specific eras. For example, “old mine cut” and “European cut” diamonds are no longer produced. These old cuts can also identify the era the jewelry was crafted in, and they often raise the value of the piece. Look at the shapes and cuts of the stones.
Check the clasps. The types of clasps used on necklaces, pins and bracelets can indicate certain time periods — as can the posts on earrings. Bracelets and necklaces might be vintage if they have box clasps or ring clasps. Today’s popular lobster clasp wasn’t widely used until the 1970s. Brooches and pins, which were wildly popular during past decades, feature different latches, such as C clasps and trombone clasps. Your piece’s fasteners can help you estimate its worth.
Take the type into account. Styles and trends changed dramatically during the 20th century. Is the piece of vintage jewelry big and bold with bright colors, or is it delicate and demure? The overall look of the piece can help pinpoint both when it was made and its value. For example, during the mid-20th century, styles were extravagant, with larger pieces and brighter colors being the rage.
Look for evidence of the designer. The designer is an important vintage jewelry identifier that can make the worth skyrocket. Several vintage designers remain popular to this day: Tiffany, Chanel, Christian Dior, Hobe, Cartier and Bulgari, among many others. Some of these brands marked their pieces with logos. Scour your vintage jewelry piece to see whether you can find a designer’s signature, as this could increase the worth exponentially.
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